Over the years we have compiled a list of questions we have been asked, if you do not see the answer to your question please email us email@example.com and we will happily provide the answer.
Answer: Extremely strong. Over the years there have been numerous eyewitness accounts of large adult deer hitting the deer fence at a full run and just bouncing off. The deer just simply gets up and heads in the other direction, no worse for the wear. The secret to this incredible strength is how the material is made; by heating and stretching, first in one direction than the other, the molecules of plastic arrange in such a manner as to provide maximum strength with a minimal amount of material. The result is a very strong material with a very thin profile.
Answer: Black is the least conspicuous color in the garden. It's really hard to see. Additionally, deer have terrible vision and even worse depth perception. The black color of the fence, coupled with the thin profile make this deer fence extremely difficult to see. When the fence is installed above a deer's line of vision, finishing at 7 feet high, the deer can't tell where the fence ends and the sky begins. The deer cannot see the deer fencing well enough to judge the fence to jump the fence. Deer instinctively know if they damage a leg they will become wolf burgers. Deer will not risk injury jumping to go feed, rather they will just head to where the food is much more available.
Answer: Not normally, unless a deer is spooked into flight. Deer are creatures of habit and tend to walk the same route at roughly the same time each day, feeding as they go. When the fence first goes up, you are closing off the deer trail and the deer will bump into the fence. They will lean on it, push on it and try to crawl under it. Bumping into the deer fence is the main method by which the deer learn that the fence is there. They will follow the perimeter of the fence so if you forget to shut a gate the deer will get in through the open gate. If the fence is not well attached to the ground, they will crawl under the fence. Thus it is imperative that the entire exclosure is securely fastened with no openings that a deer can wiggle through. Eventually the deer will create a new deer path that will go around your deer protection fence. This process takes 3 or 4 months.
Answer: No, not if the fence is installed properly. With that being said on rare occasions, a spooked deer running at 40 mph may break the deer fencing. However, the fence is easily repaired with zip ties if that does happen. A deer will only run into the deer fence at that speed if it is being chased by something.
Answer: A white ribbon or streamer flaps in the breeze alerting the deer to the presence of the fence. Deer eyes are designed to see motion. This flapping helps to train the deer to go around the fence.
Answer: Deer get alerted to the presence of the deer fencing by the streamers flapping in the breeze. They will learn to go around the fence eventually forming a new deer trail. The perimeter of the garden, yard or farm is now protected.
Answer. If a deer does run into the fence, a properly installed poly deer fence will give a little and then repel the deer. The animal will get up and go in another direction. Poly deer fencing should be installed snuggly but not drum tight.
Answer: The biggest challenge becomes when the deer "doesn't remember" how he got in, or if the car door slams or the dog barks; you are now dealing with a spooked animal. The deer will dart to and fro bouncing off the deer fencing like a pin ball game. If it is alarge enclosure you will have to gather a few helpers, arm them with sticks and pots and pans and assorted noise makers. Start at the far end and create a real racket as you drive the deer back toward the gate. If it is a smaller exclosure the deer may feel trapped and repeatedly launch his body into the fence. Eventually the fence will break and the deer will be gone. The fence is easily repaired and a lesson learned. Gates must be kept shut particularly at night.
Answer: yes. The fence in impregnated with UV inhibitors.
How well does the material stand up to extreme weather? Answer: Properly installed the fence can withstand very low temperatures, ice storms, and heavy snow load. It can also be resilient and enduring in very hot summer temperatures as well.
Answer: Unlike metal deer fence our poly deer fence is very light and can be easily carried through rough terrain. A 330' x 7.5 foot roll of standard fence weighs 50 lbs. A 200 foot long x 7.5 foot roll of heavy duty fence weighs 40 pounds; compare this to steel game fence 330 x 7.5 feet which weighs over 400 pounds.
Answer: Trees. They're free and allow you to create the most natural-looking deer fence line that will blend right into your landscape. When attaching to trees there is no rule that says you must make a straight line. Zig Zag patterns work just fine. You can go as far as 25 feet between trees.
Answer: #10 galvanized nails, oh and by the way driving a nail into a tree will have no effective, as long as it's not a copper nail, what so ever on the health of the tree Drive the nails halfway into the tree and hang the deer fencing directly on the nails. Start with three nails, install one at the top of the fence, approximately 7' high. Put the next nail in the middle and the last near ground level. After the fence is hung, and you've adjusted the slack from the fence, bend the nails slightly 45 degrees (no more than this). This will hold the deer fencing in place and as the tree grows, the deer fencing will slide out on the nail solving the problem of the tree growing into the deer fence.
Answer: Yes, wooden posts are perfectly satisfactory. Be aware however, the post must be strong enough to take a 200 plus pound animal banging into it. We have seen 4x4 post snapped in two. Generally speaking you need at least a 5" round.
Answer: Yes. Inevitably, for the home owner, a hole needs to be dug or augured out. For a 7 foot above ground wooden post, the hole needs to be 3 foot deep or more to prevent frost heave. The deer fence post then needs to be concreted into the ground or the hole back filled with compacted gravel. Finally, wooden posts have a limited life and tend to rot at the soil line. This is why we recommend steel posts
Answer: We supply a black-coated steel post and sleeve system. Where the sleeve is driven into the ground then the long post is dropped into the sleeve. Alternatively, we also sell our freedom deer fence posts. These post are made from recycled railroad rails. This is a very hard steel. They can be either driven into the ground or dug into place. If you are installing a large number of post we suggest you take a look at our gas powered post driver. The REDI driver will make that hard job easy.
Answer: A driven steel post is always stronger than a post in an excavated hole as the soil is not disturbed. The post is not subject to frost heave as it is in a sleeve and can move up and down also the thinner diameter of the metal post makes it much less likely to heave. Our round post are galvanized and painted to ensure long life expectancy. Our Freedom post are powder coated and will last for a very long period of time.
Answer: Zip ties can be used but periodically they will need to be replaced as they tend to wear out. They will go brittle in the sun. Additional ties should be added every 3 years or so.
Answer: Unlike steel fencing, tensioning is done by hand. It is easiest if one person pulls the fence to stretch it while the other fixes it to the tree or post. Remember, make the deer fencing snug but not drum tight. A little bit of give helps the deer fence to repel deer.
Answer: When the ground changes direction there will be either too much material at the top and not enough at the bottom or vice versa. At the post, pleat the material as required. The extra material will not be visible when done at the post. If the change is more extreme, cut the fence completely off and reattach there will be a triangle worth of waste material that should be cut off and discarded. Remember, change in direction, up down or side to side can only happen at a post.
Answer: The nylon tension cable offers a number of advantages especially in a wood lot. It offers another point of attachment between deer fence posts producing a sleeker looking finished product. Additionally it makes the fence stronger and it increases the spacing between posts. Instead of 15 foot spacing you can now space as much as 18 or 20 feet between posts. It also serves to protect the deer fence from falling limbs. Many branches that would otherwise damage the deer fencing are deflected harmlessly away. Obviously, there is a point where the limb or tree is too large for deflection and the fence will collapse. Simply remove the tree, cut the fence back to the two nearest undamaged posts and replace this section.
Why is the reinforcing cable black? Answer: The goal is low visibility. A black cable is much harder to see. Remember, when using cable you must brace the corner posts. The only time this would not apply is if the corner post is a tree.
Answer: Gripples are the simplest and best way to tension our nylon cable.
Answer: A Gripple is a self-tensioning device that has a small ceramic cog inside that grips the cable in one direction and lets the cable slide through in the other direction.
Answer: Approximately 800 lbs.
Answer: On trees, a channel can be created using large U-nails for the cable to pass through. The cable is than secured to the last post or tree in that straight line run. Secure the cable to the end post by first running the cable through the gripple, follow the arrows on the side of the gripple, go around the post and then pass back through the other set of holes in the gripple. This will create in effect a slip knot that will hold the cable fast and won't let go.
Answer: Cable along the bottom can only be installed satisfactorily on level ground. If the fence is crossing a lawn then a bottom cable can be used to raise the fence a few inches above the lawn for cutting.
Answer: We recommend attaching the cable to the mesh using Zip Ties or hog rings and hog ring pliers.
Answer: Think of a heavy duty heavy staple that is formed into a ring with the pliers. Hog rings are a great labor saving device.
Answer: One ring every 6 to 12 inches. Like staples, these are small and easily lost outside so make sure you have spares.
Answer: Yes, do not skip this step. Deer will try to go under the fence.
Answer: The fence material is 7' 6" and the bottom few inches is laid flat on the ground and flared out toward the outside of the exclosure. We recommend securing to the ground with Deer Fence USA ground stakes every 5 feet or so. Please apply common sense, if a particular area requires more stakes do to the structure of the soil than do so. Deer will try to push under. Make sure they cannot.
Answer: We can supply extra-long ground stakes to hold down the fence in this situation. Just ask.
Answer: We have a zig zag shape on the ground stake to give maximum grip in all soils.
Answer: Not necessarily, although they are recommended. You can also use rocks or logs as long as the fence is securely fixed and cannot be lifted.
Answer: As with all fencing, it is wise to walk around the perimeter of the fence at least once a year to check for any damage and repair as necessary. Please do not allow vines to grow on the fence. Eventually they will damage the fence, but before that occurs the weight of the vine will pull down the fence. Additionally, a vine covered fence is now visible to the deer. If a deer can see it, he can now judge it to jump it.
Answer: Most likely due to a chewing critter gnawing on the fence. Deer don't have the right sort of teeth to chew the fence, but rodents do. This problem is easily solve with our chew protection barrier.
Answer: To prevent animals from chewing on the bottom of the fence, add our Chew Protection barrier to the bottom of the fence. This PVC-coated wire fence will help prevent chewing. Install this barrier on the outside of the fence line to keep animals from trying to gnaw their way in.
Answer: Yes, quite easily. It comes in 2 foot and 3 foot heights and can be attached with hog rings to the deer fence.
Answer: Yes, just use our hog rings to patch to fix a patch to the hole in the fence.
Answer: This is the same deer fencing that Benner's Gardens used to sell. Years ago Dave Benner gave me a tour of his garden. Yes, this is the place where the Benner's Deer Fence and Deer Fencing Systems were born. Shortly thereafter, I went to work for Dave and Al Benner. I learned the Benner's Gardens systems and their commitment to quality. Dave and AL Benner have long since retired, the company they started, Benner's Gardens has been sold twice since and the present owners have taken the company in a new direction. The world changes but here at Deer Fence USA we only sell the time tested best materials and methods to keep deer out.
Answer: It depends on who is asking. Some people refer to deer fence as deer netting, however, a number of the large box retailer's market deer netting and many people have purchased this material. Please be aware that this is an extremely light weight and flimsy material that is not an effective deer barrier. Our advice buy your deer fence from a reputable knowledgeable source. Ask a few questions, it will quickly become obvious if the vender knows what he or she is talking about.
We invite your comments. Please feel free to use the adjacent form, or you may contact us via telephone or email as follows:
20 Crestview Dr Parkesburg PA USA 19365
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